Underwear
Originally for extra warmth, underwear soon became an essential foundation for the fashions of the day, but often had a contradictory role. On the one hand, it was used to enhance womanly silhouettes, whilst on the other it protected a woman’s modesty.
The oldest underwear is probably the chemise – worn in the 16th century, this was a cotton (or sacking in the poorer families) blouse with a drawstring fastener at the top. These were worn by both men and women, as well as children, who were sometimes sewn into them in November and cut out in spring! On top of this, a 16th century woman would wear her fathingale – a petticoat with cane or metal bands to give skirts fullness. Sometimes a “bum roll” would be put over the hips to enhance (or give the appearance of) a smaller waist. A later alternative was the bustle back petticoat worn by Victorian women to enhance bottoms. Such a contraption would sell for around £50 today. During the 17th century, corsets were also worn by men, women and children, hence the very grown up look of children in the old paintings. A late Georgian corset would cost £800 - £900.
Knickers were not worn generally until the turn of the 18th century. The fashion of the time was high waisted dresses in daring almost transparent muslin. If a girl was to protect her honour, underwear was essential. As you would expect, these knickers (also known as pantaloons or drawers) were suitably long legged and continued to be worn up until the beginning of the 20th Century. (A pair of Victorian cotton bloomers would be worth £20).
After World War 1 many women began to join the work force and live more active lives, so heavy corsets and cumbersome underwear was abandoned and camiknickers became en vogue.
1950’s underwear is particularly popular today. After the willowy girlish figures of the 1920’s, fuller figures were back in fashion due to the star status of Marilyn Monroe and Jane Russell.
Old and antique underclothing is a fascinating subject. Whilst you may not be keen on wearing someone else’s drawers, a pretty Victorian garter would definitely be a beautifully “old” item for a modern bride.
